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At tbs, we want to create each of the fabrics we use ourselves.
This requires a very specific set of skills, a great deal of fastidiousness and many years of experience.
For every collection our stylists imagine future fabrics for shirts. They use trend books, fashion fabrics and also trends in design and furnishings. They then select the types of yarns they need to create the desired effect: chiné yarns, slub yarns, natural fibres (linen, cotton, etc.).
We choose yarns with a different diameter depending on their use, the season and the desired result. Before creating a pattern, we need to calculate the number of yarns per centimetre. This choice is very important because it dictates the weight of the fabric and the definition of the future pattern. The more yarns there are per centimetre, the more compact the fabric will be and the more precise the design.
To ensure that our fabrics perfectly match our design palettes, we choose our own yarn colours. The colour palette is constantly to hand in the studio when our stylists are developing the tbs fabrics.
Weaving crosses vertical yarns (warp) and horizontal yarns (weft) in a loom or weaving machine. The weave is how the warp and weft intersect. There are three main weaves: plain, twill and satin. Many fabrics are made from these three main weaves and their combinations.
At tbs, we create our own patterns in dyed yarn. To develop a fabric we first define the number of yarns, their position and their colour. The difficulty when crossing two yarns is mixing the colours. For example, a red and a cyan combined together may create an unattractive colour.
Once the file is complete, we send it to our fabric manufacturer who provides a handloom which is a sample of unfinished fabric. Because our deadlines are always very tight, the first handloom must be perfect! If it is not suitable, the fabric is removed from the collection. But in 95% of cases, it’s an immediate success. This is where we see the expertise and many years of experience of our 6 stylists.
Creating fabric does not just mean weaving. We apply a treatment to give it a finish before it is used to make clothes or on the finished product. There are many types of finishes, some rather improbable, such as washing the finished product with golf balls.